July 5th, 2008 Newsletter
Bardstown Road Farmers’ Market, Inc
Sarah’s Corner
From our friend Sarah Fritschner
Thirty years ago, the Lodi apple was a best-selling item, says long-time Bardstown Road fruit-and-vegetable vendor James Jackson. The tart, green, crisp apples -- also known as June apples -- flew off the table – as customers snatched them up to make pies, applesauce, or to eat them out of hand.
While old-fashioned tomatoes are back in style, Lodis haven’t regained their earlier popularity. Maybe it’s because they ripen too early for people to be thinking about apples; maybe it’s because everyone associates them with baking.
But you don’t have to cook June apples to enjoy them. Eating them fresh is another way to enjoy fresh produce overlooked by the hybridizers who tend to breed flavor out of food while they enhance shipability and storage life (Lodis store very well, so they don’t need to be improved upon). And your apple munching is just another way to sustain local agriculture and regional diversity.
On the other hand, Lodi’s tart, firm flesh makes them the perfect cooking apple. Whether you’re frying them in the morning to serve with sausage and biscuits, or cooking them in a crisp for dessert, Lodi flavor stays assertive while the apple holds its shape.
Fried apples
People who grow up in the country don’t need a recipe for frying apples, but many of us are new to the concept. This recipe is what you might call “a good start,” but feel free to fiddle with the proportions to suit your taste.
3 medium apples, about 1 pound
1 tablespoon butter
2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar, or more to taste
2 shakes ground cinnamon
Peel the apples only if you want (my mother never did). Cut the apples lengthwise into quarters then cut out the seeds with a small, sharp knife.
Melt the butter in a wide, deep skillet set over medium high heat. Cut the apple quarters lengthwise in half, letting them fall into the skillet as you do. After all the apples are in the skillet, stir a few times. Cover, lower heat to medium and cook 5 minutes or so, until the apples have softened. Remove lid, add sugar and cinnamon and stir to coat the apples with sugar.
Apples should exude some juice as they cook (if they don’t, add water, cream or apple juice). Cook until the apples are softened, about 10 minutes, lowering heat if juice seems to be burning. Taste and add a little sugar if you prefer (stir to dissolve before serving). Serves 3 or 4 people.
Apple crisp
The flesh of Lodi isn’t as juicy as some apples. So as the “Joy of Cooking” recommends, I will moisten the filling of my pies and tarts with a little cream. Come to think of it, the addition of a little cream really doesn’t hurt any fruit dessert.
Apple crisp is a free form dessert. Don’t worry if you have a few more apples, or a few less, than called for.
8 medium apples, peeled and sliced (to make 8 cups)
¼ cup cream, optional
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup rolled oats
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)
¼ teaspoon ground cloves (optional)
½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 6 or 8 pieces
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart casserole dish or similar-size pan.
Place apples in casserole. If the apples are Lodi or other dry-flesh variety, drizzle the slices with cream.
Combine remaining ingredients in a large bowl. Use your fingers or a pastry blender to rub or cut the butter until the mixture is crumbly and there are no big chunks of butter. Sprinkle topping over apples. Bake 30 minutes, or until topping is brown and apples are tender. Serves 8. Serve with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream or caramel sauce, if desired.